We found locating in the suburbs of Tokyo to be the best thing for our family. Though it means added time on the trains, it was less expensive and a bit less hectic. We located in Nishi-Choufu, about a 20-minute ride by express train from Shinjuku. Although our apartment was small, it was larger than we would have been able to find in central Tokyo for a comparable amount, and we were certainly comfortable. After a busy day in Tokyo, it was so restful to return to the quiet streets of our neighborhood.

Living outside central Tokyo made acquiring bicycles an absolute necessity. I would go so far to say that our life in Japan began the day we finally got our bikes. I bought one second-hand through the classified ads section in a magazine. Bikes make travelling to the local store, park or station a real pleasure. Children's seats are available at any bike shop (for about 3500 yen) and they will install them on the spot. You may want, however, to shop for kids' and adults' helmets before you arrive as they are not widely used or available yet in Japan. Outside Tokyo, biking is a way of life and using them transformed us from tourists to real bona fide resident aliens!

If you decide to locate outside of central Tokyo, it is not a bad idea to look in the vicinity of the American School in Japan (ASIJ). I stumbled there in desperation with a hand-written sign trying to find playmates for my 3 and a half-year old daughter. I left with a free bike, a computerized list of babysitters, and information about an English speaking pre-school (The West Tokyo Pre-School, near ASIJ). For a small fee you can join the ASIJ library which contains a number of great kids' books in English as well as useful resource and reading material for adults. The school store has several books on Japan as well as current issues of American magazines for sale. The atmosphere on this campus is lively and incredibly welcoming. Because many of the faculty live in the area as well, Western holidays are celebrated: it was nice for our homesick little girl to be able to trick-or-treat on Halloween there.

There are two books about living in Japan with kids which we found to be invaluable: A Parent's Guide to Tokyo, Tokyo Treats for Tots, Teens, and Tourists, Hartzenbusch & Shabecoff, Shufunotomo Co., and Japan for Kids, the Ultimate Guide for Parents and their Children, Kodansha International. In them, you will find information on everything you can possibly do with children in Japan, as well as shopping, health care, education and travel tips. Both books include clear directions on how to get to many marvelous places that will make living abroad a real treat for your children. (Don't miss the amazing Children's Castle in Shibuya: it contains 6 floors of creative and physical fun for kids of all ages.) It was in these books that we discovered the location of water friendly parks throughout Tokyo and its suburbs. In the unbearable summer heat, it's fabulous to find these parks where you can let your child frolic in cleverly designed sprays of water that encourage even the most timid child to get wet. In general, parks around Tokyo are quite child-friendly.

If you have hopes of enrolling your child in a bilingual pre-school, the above mentioned books will tell you which schools to contact, but be forewarned that this is an expensive venture. We had hoped our daughter to have a daily experience in a bilingual pre-school, but we found the costs to be wildly prohibitive. West Tokyo Pre-School was affordable and proved to be a very special place. While only English is spoken there, many of the children are Japanese and there is good exposure to Japanese customs. It was very hard for our daughter to leave Japan by the end of our stay, due largely to the fast friendships and careful nurturing she received at her pre-school。Here's a quick list of odd things I wish I had known to pack or send ahead. I ended up spending way too much money on clothes hangers, clothes pins, basic medical supplies, coffee, popcorn, hot cocoa mixes, an umbrella stroller (a must if your child is under 3!) and stickers or other small gifts that your child can give when visiting friends.

Finally, your fellowship will be significantly altered by the presence of children, but many of the difference are quite wonderful. Though the presence of children limited my husband's and my ability to see much theater together (or to experience Tokyo's nightlife), the Japanese love children and having a child with you opens doors which would otherwise remain closed. It took several heartbreaking weeks of regular attendance at our local park before the very shy Japanese children would play with our daughter, but once the ice was broken, we found ourselves invited to homes for holiday celebrations and were the recipients of much help and kindness.

Also, be prepared to discover that your child may love things you thought they'd never try. Our daughter ate niboshi (small dried fish) like popcorn and became a real fan of sumo and kabuki.

Please feel free to call us (717-784-5530) if  we can answer any questions you have about your upcoming trip. Though adjustment takes time, it's a fabulous experience and the months will fly by.

1. Trash collection is taken very seriously in Japan, with certain days (and time frames) disginated for burnables, non-bunrables and recycling (paper, glass, etc.). Each city or ward takes a different approach. Some municipalities require you purchase special bags according to the content of the garbage. Garbage bags can generally be purchased at convenience or supermarkets. Please check with your local city office (or your neighbors or landlord) to get the correct information about disposing of garbage.
2. Rentaphone is the best deal around for getting a temporary cell phone. Phone cards and pre-dials are good for less expensive long distance calling.
3. Utility bills are easily paid at convenience stores, banks or post offices.
4. Banking hours (including the Post Office Bank) are from 9 AM to 3 PM, Monday through Friday. You can withdraw from ATM machines 24 hours a day in the larger bank and post office branches, though after hours withdrawals incur a slight fee. There are also 24 hour ATM machines in select convenience stores and train stations.
5. No two 100 Yen shops are alike. They often carry a good selection of basic household supplies as well.
6. There are many “do it yourself” and home improvement stores in Japan (like Shimachu) where you can find furniture, household goods, art materials, tools, paints and almost anything imaginable. Tokyu Hands and Sekaido are especially good for art materials. In Kyoto, D2 is a large home shop where you will find bedding, house ware, etc.
7. Wednesday is ladies’ discount day at the movies.
8. You will only need a power converter for a 3-prong (ground) plug. The lower voltage in Japan (100v) is safe for US electrical equipment.

1. Subways or commuter trains: monthly passes are not really economical unless you are commuting between two specific stations daily.
2. When you are uncertain of the fare, pay the cheapest fare for subways/trains and then pay the difference at the “fare adjustment” machine near the turnstiles at the exit. Purchasing a prepaid electronic ticket (“Passmo” or “Suica” in Tokyo,”Icoca” in the Kansai area) will save you a lot of headaches (see the section on travel in the Residency Guide).
3. Subway or local train tickets need to be used the same day as purchase.
4. Train platforms are organized so that some trains board at different places on the platform. These places are usually marked (triangles, circles, etc.). These markings will match what is indicated about the train on the electronic information board.
5. Long distance trains offer seat reservations, and you cannot ride in the reserved cars with a reservation. I recommend getting seat reservations whenever possible.
6. Taxi drivers will automatically open and close the rear door on the passenger side of the taxi when they stop for you. You should not try to open the door on your own, and NEVER try to open the door and alight from the driver’s side. This can be very dangerous in traffic.
7. When taking a taxi consider having the address of your final destination written out in Japanese. Use cell phone numbers as a back up for the taxi drivers who need to call the person that you are going to visit.

1. Greetings: Ohaiyoo gozaimasu (good morning) is appropriate until around 10am or so (some say it unto noon).
2. Greetings: Kon’nichiwa (good afternoon) 10am to 5pm.
3. Greetings: Kon’banwa (good evening) from 5 pm on.
4. Oyasuminasai (goodnight) when retiring for the night (before going to bed) .
5. Medical masks are worn by those who are sick as a courtesy to others.
6. Coughing and nose blowing are considered uncouth and a little gross, as is using a handkerchief to wipe your nose. Most people carry tissue packets around for this purpose. Handerchiefs are for drying your hands after washing.
7. Eating and drinking on the go (while walking) is taboo. So is applying makeup or shaving while riding the train or bus.
8. Counter service restaurants will at times require that you pay for your food at an automatic vending machine that will give you a ticket that you then present to the serve/staff at the table.
9. Never stick your chopsticks upright in a rice bowl or pass food to another person chopstick to chopstick. This is only done at funerals and will make your table-mates very nervous.
10. Business cards, also known as name cards, are very important. Give them to any/everyone you meet. People appreciate it, and it helps them understand your name and what you are doing in Japan. The I-House will assist you in getting these cards.
11. Upon giving a name card to someone, you will often receive one in return. It is important that you take a moment and hold it with both hands and read both the front and back of the card. If you sit at a table together, you should place the card, face-up, on the table between the two of you so you can refer to it while conversing.
12. A shallow bow is the norm when meeting/greeting someone. A handshake may be unexpected or awkward.
13. When paying at the cash register, money goes in a small dish on the counter, not directly in cashier’s hands. Likewise, if you make a direct cash payment to someone for services such as teaching, translation, assistance, etc., you should put the money in an envelope before handing it to them. Passing money directly by hand is considered uncouth in Japan (unless betwen family members or good friends).
14. As a guest you should not eat all that is offered to you. As a host you should serve treats/sweets in odd numbers, i.e. five cakes. Especially avoid the number four as the word for four (shi) can also mean death.
15. Good small gifts include: pins, stationary, Japanese treats, alchoholic beverages (if you know the recipient likes to drink).
16. Upon receiving gifts, people may feel obligated to give something in return.
17. Most people will avoid saying “no” or that something is “impossible”, usually this will be conveyed indirectly but implied such as in the statement: “it will be very difficult/hard”…but really this means “no” as well.
18. Artist talks and book readings with an interpreter takes a longer time to present, but is important for Japanese guests with varied English skills.
19. In addition to painting, drawing, sculpting and printmaking, tea ceremony, ikebana and calligraphy are also considered to be a part of the fine arts.
20. Most onsen (public hot baths) will not allow you to enter with tattoos of any size. This is because of their association with yakuza (mafia).

1. Kyoto has an array of festivals that happen through out the year. The nighttime illuminations during the sakura cherry blossom season are not to be missed (esp. at Nijo Castle).
2. Short-term housing can be difficult to procure because of the Japanese system of guarantors who must co-sign the rental agreement and be Japanese citizens or permanent residents. In Kyoto, the best places to look are: the message board at the Kyoto International Community House, the websites of companies offering furnished efficiency apartments (monthly manshon--see the section on housing in the Residency Guide) or from friends or word of mouth. It is best to finalize your accommodations before arrival. You may also try to book as many nights as you can at a local hostel (the best one in Kyoto in 2010 was K’s House).
3. There is a very good art supply store right near the Higashiyama subway station.
4. Among the many great museums and art/cultural centers in Kyoto, Villanova is an interesting French artist residency/colony in the Eastern part of Kyoto.